Goa - untamed sands

PERSPECTIVES

Goa is an experience that leaves you asking for more no matter who you are or what you go looking for.

For a bunch of liberated guys, it could mean a symbol of freedom – biking through never-ending roads and the lack of a curfew (restaurants are open till as late as 5 unlike most other places in India).
To a group of school kids on an excursion, it could mean infinite stretches of beach to build sand castles on, several imposing churches to stare at in wonder
To the veteran traveller and culture enthusiast, it could be a beautiful ensemble of old Portuguese buildings and traditions (Panjim, old Goa, the names – D’Mellos and Fernandezes) intermixed with an indigenous Konkani approach (eg:-seafood preparations) infused with a dash of cosmopolitan and international tang (eg:-karaoke, world-cuisine, nightclubs, foreign tourists)
To the honeymooning couple, a relaxing week in a resort at an isolated stretch of beach in South Goa, sipping on Margeritas, bathing in the sun and spotting turtles.
To the waiter at the shack, Goa is a window of opportunity to earn a living, especially during Christmas season, a cause worth leaving his home in Nepal for. A chance to meet some tourists who might find him a ticket to Russia or Germany and a well paying job.
To the foreign tourists, its a place with bright golden suns that beams gloriously on their skin starved for warmth, a chance to get out of their fur-coats and into their bikinis and lie for hours together on the beach; a chance to be hippie and happy at a very low cost and finally -
to the nation, a vibrant economy and a major contributor to tourism revenues.
Whoever you are , you leave Goa happy.

PICTURE PERFECT

I would imagine a photographer would gravitate towards a visually stimulating ambience.
That being said, a trip to Anjuna flea market is like walking into a kaleidoscope. A field of multinational street shoppers for as far as the eye can see – this Wednesday morning bazaar can boast of having more colours than any LED television known to man. After recovering from the momentary paralysis, I realised that this place was made possible because of an Indian stereotype I wasn’t yet aware of – Indians apparently like to dress in BOLD COLOURS ! At least the foreign crowd seems to think that that more colours they find on a garment, the closer they are to the stylised image of glorious tantric divinity, and consequently the better the bargain.

Personally, I’m fascinated by anything arranged in rows. And rows is all Anjuna flea market has. One could hold that camera at one end and capture a row of about fifty harems, or skirts, or scarves, or shorts, or tops, or dresses, or hats, or rugs, or music CDs, or incense sticks, or hookah, or all of the above.

What makes for a great profile picture is the sun filtering in through the straw ceiling and bathing the subject in dots, while the subject is surrounded by bright clothes of every hue imaginable.

Another subject of interest could be a scene of buyer and seller engaged in a classic haggling contest. The good buyers manage to secure the item in question at about a quarter of the quoted price, but not without displaying an assortment of extremely photogenic expressions and gestures.

The odd toddler in sunglasses and ‘Aum’ embellished kurta or a leisurely cow looking misplaced in the apparent vicissitudes of life around it could make for a good capture as well.






Curlies beach shack, again at Anjuna beach proves to be a haven for a very interesting type of photography. On an average day between Christmas and New Year’s, Curlies can figuratively house the whole of the People’s Republic of China. While the sheer size of the crowd can prove infinite opportunities for a photographer from a people-watcher’s perspective, the attraction for me comes illuminated by ultra-violet light. The ambience is pretty trippy, to be very straightforward . The dance floor lies beneath a roof supported by canes painted in fluorescent green and orange and the back of the the elevated stage is painted with themes centred around (seemingly magic) mushrooms, wood nymphs, spirals and generally confounding designs.

A good site to capture midday sun flares would be a rocky section at Arambol beach, or while focusing on an airborne para-glider at the same location.

SMELLS AND TASTES

I would like to begin this section by talking about what I believe all of mankind is subconsciously set out to achieve. Cheesecake. Nothing would please me more than calling myself a connoisseur of cheesecake, only that my last few encounters with cheesecake have not been very pleasant. Goa was a mixed bag though. I have tried cheesecake in three places, (incidentally mind you – not that i went to these places looking for cheese cake)
a) Carasid (near Miramar) – The blueberry cheesecake was quite top notch
b) Down the road (Panjim) – The cheesecake was covered in ants
c) German bakery (Anjuna) – The cream in the cheesecake had turned sour
I realise I have put my connoisseur reputation at stake by displaying a 33% success rate with respect to cheesecake but I really found the last two places worth a mention for other reasons.
Down the road is a pub with a tavern-ish feel set in a fantastic location by the Old Patto bridge. We decided to hit the place for lunch. The seats are designed like barrels and are quite cosy. The corner seat has a TV broadcasting cookery channels and tempting you sufficiently before your order comes. The potato wedges and fish preparations are worth a try. The waiters might come off as a little rude, if you manage to subdue your violent reactionary tendencies, you might enjoy a great conversation over a beer and the virtually noiseless Goan traffic. The place is quite affordable for the average holidaying Kumar and also boasts of live music performances and Karaoke in the evenings. One word of caution though; If you plan to go during the daytime, please don’t expect the kitchens to be open before 12:30 or after 3pm , when the chefs enjoy their mandatory siesta.
I was in one of my rare curious moods when I followed a scooter into an inconspicuous lane which sort of gave me the feeling of an Alice going down the rabbit hole before I reached an oasis by the name of German Bakery which swept me clean off my feet ! The main entrance boasts of health food and wifi. Reason in itself to warrant an inspection. Upon entry, you will find a notice board which advertises yoga and spirituality sessions by a foreigner, dance lessons for kids and other interesting things which made me realise the prevalence of microcosms within Goa. As I entered the cafe, I felt an intense feeling of liberation. Expansive and colourful, the decor seemed to be intelligently and I suspect, intentionally designed with a somewhat careless touch. Floor cushion-seating, garage sale paintings with simple designs, colourful Tibetian prayer flag, fish nets and plenty of potted plants. But it all came together well enough for me to buy it; and I haven’t even come to the menu yet. The menu is the longest thing I’ve read since the Lord of the Rings. It started off with ‘energy shots’ – aloe vera and wheat grass. I assumed aloe vera would be bitter so I opted for the wheat grass for the sheer novelty of it. As per what I’d expected, it was grass, and unlike what I expected , instead of invigorating me, it put me into a snail-like stupor that caused me to sit there for the next four hours. In that time, I took the opportunity to try out several dishes, many of which I would actually like to recommend. The Vitamina tea or any of the assortment of the extremely jazzy sounding medley beverages, Jamaican pancake, crepe in strawberry sauce, cinnamon croissant and the broccoli pasta. The crowd there pretty much seemed to be from all corners of the world, making it a good place to discuss global warming and other such global issues over a cup of aloe vera or wheat grass.

A major attraction at Goa, is the Bebinca – a fourteen layered dessert , the recipe of which it seems, has been guarded by Goans for millennia at a level of secrecy several times greater than Coca Cola. Well, not exactly, but such ideas did cross my head during my search for Bebinca spanning three days before I ran into it in Delfino’s supermarket, Candolim. (How that happened is a long story, but the important thing is that it happened) It did live up to its expectations when eaten with a dollop of ice cream at the side of the plate. I later discovered that it was quite widely accessible after all. Anyway, a MUST HAVE.

I wish to skip past the typical vindaloo, xacuti hocum altogether since I didn’t like them very much. I really recommend Apana Punjab, near vagator beach for its lassi and affordable rates.

Most Goan party destinations carry the scent of incense, and quite intoxicating at that. Waft after waft of a fragrance that I can't seem to liken to anything, just that its on the stronger side, perhaps floral, possibly medicinal and definitely inviting. I suppose the biggest trigger of a string of nostalgic thoughts associated with Goa is this scent. I've tried googling it in vain, I would really appreciate if someone enlightened me about it.

ADRENALINE

The number one spot in Goa for an adrenaline rush would have to be the paragliding center at Arambol beach. The approach to the beach is a fantastic serene 24 km drive from Baga, that only builds expectation of an adventure. (I suggest you leave before noon since winds are not very strong in the evening) There are a couple of hilly stretches of road that are bathed majestically in sunlight - I highly recommend traveling with a 'woo-girl' in this stretch. The entrance to Arambol beach is a reasonably long narrow 'galli' lined with shops where you can purchase anything, yet nothing in particular. The beach suddenly opens up to a panoramic view of clean water, good-looking foreigners, a volleyball court and a the hope of a peaceful stay uninterrupted by hawkers or waiters dragging you to oblige with a purchase or a meal. You will not be able to spot the paragliders at first but you will have to look to the far right (also left - but I have been twice to the right side). If you look at the water, you will see the beach 'ending' in a pile of rock. There is a sheltered passageway that leads you to the spot by taking you through a maze of restaurants playing devotional music and hawkers selling Bob Marley t-shirts. Once you reach the paragliding spot, you will be accosted by a bunch of guys. Do NOT go to the foreigner, he charges too much. Use all your bargain skills with the Himachali guys that conduct your adventure. Christmas season could cost you as much as Rs. 1500/- . Attempt to get it to Rs. 1000 - 1200. Try and avoid the expensive food if you don't want your hard-earned bargain lost to another business cause. Ask for hill top takeoff - to bottom landing. The trek up to the hill-top is quite fun, just be sure not to slip on the loose mud , and do carry a bottle of water with you. Once there at the top , you will feel a great sense of relief followed by excitement , or surprise, in case you find a 70 year old foreigner running laps in the tall grass. Then get prepared to fasten your seat-belt and wipe your head clear of all worries as you get ready for the leap of faith.

ROMANCE

I would really recommend the one hour plus drive from Calangute area to Querim beach way up in the north, especially the last fifteen minute stretch that snakes through the hills. I found myself mesmerised by the view and talking about Buddhist philosophy but I’m pretty sure it could tickle out romantic thoughts in a couple looking for a getaway. Querim beach itself is really serene and non-commercial, which could prove to be a spot for a nice picnic and a heart-to heart.
Hookah by candle-light at one of the sea-side shacks at Baga beach is also a pretty cosy experience. Don’t stay beyond 9 pm unless you want to find yourself completely alone with only the waiters and the darkness surrounding you.


POCKET-PROTECTION

Goa is infamous for having the ability to burn your pocket without you realising. With some prior planning, you should be able to save some valuable bucks without robbing you of significant amount of experience. It must be noted that Goa is a seasonal holiday location. What that means is that the whole economy of Goa lies dormant for most of the year, only to emerge post-Christmas with a vengeance, that'll take you for a ride.

New-years time is clearly the most expensive - places to stay are about ten times more expensive than at a quiet time of the year (such as the monsoon season).
Note that after new-years , shacks and guest houses will require you to book for at least 5 days. Averaging around 3000 Rs for a double-bedded room per night, you will be set off by a clean 15 grand. Be prepared. Do some thorough research. I would ideally stay for 3 nights and 4 days and I am confident there are places which would gladly have you stay for that duration without too much of a fuss. An Activa scooter on rent would go for upto 700 bucks a day post-christmas, around 1500 around new years and a mere 200 during off-season. If you have to rent a scooter, do it in a block covering your whole stay with a buffer. You don't want to inform him at the last moment that you wish to keep it for half a day more and end up paying heavily (sometimes double) for the extra time.

There are a variety of novel ways in which shopkeepers like to rip off tourists - one way is the concept of 'cooling charges' . If you walk into a store for a couple beers, and ask the price, and then add up the costs only to find a discrepancy, you are a victim of 'cooling charges'. The truth is that there is no such thing as 'cooling charges', and the price at which you should be purchasing it is the MRP or the maximum retail price printed on the bottle/can.

SOUVENIRS

• Almost any article of clothing or junk jewellery from Anjuna flea market.
• A pipe and flavoured tobacco from the same place.
• Colourful fish-printed shorts at Calangute beach.
• A 500gm pack of Bebinca.
• Salted cashew-nuts - they're sold in wholesale stores in Goa. Mapusa bust stand.
• Cashew feni. Be warned, feni has a peculiar smell, somewhat like Fevicol, that causes the female species to want to vomit, so I suggest it be gifted as a token of vitality and machismo to a male friend.