Safar-Al-Arab (Dubai) post coming soon....

Tezpur - Pride of Assam

PERSPECTIVES

Every place has its own charm but as is said:"Beauty lies in the eyes of the beholder". While the youngsters might prefer a bustling town with a great night life, the older might just seek solitude in a quiet place away from the humdrum of the city. But again, its not just the age but a wide variety of factors that play a part. For instance, whether you are on an educational tour, on a honeymoon or just taking a break alone.
My trip to Tezpur is a perfect example of this. Although being in our early 20's, we have a penchant for the so called "cool" places, but that trip was supposed to be a journey to the unknown India's past. Places like Delhi and Rajasthan are common destination for people with the same objective that we had, but we wanted to try something different. That exactly is what the travel agents and websites should tap in the holiday season or in any season for that matter. The reason being that, there are a lot of people like me who seek the unknown and the not-so-famous lands. You will find a zillion websites taking you to Shimla and Mussourie but how many have heard of Tawang and Roing ?
Tezpur is the historical capital of Assam apart from being a hub of the Indian army. In essence, it has a mix of both the old and new worlds and is a perfect holiday destination for the travel salesman to tap.

PICTURE PERFECT
There is no dearth of picture perfect locations in Tezpur. Be it the stone garden of Kanaklata Udyan or the biological gardens in Agnigarh,Tezpur is the place to be for photography enthusiasts apart from the regular travellers. It is not called the "City of love" for no reason.
We were lucky to experience both sunshine and rainfall in our 3 days of stay there. Hence we were able to catch the glimpse of the beauty of Agnigarh in all its glory as the sunshine fell on the variety of beautiful plants there as well as the raindrops glistening on the rocks of Kanaklata Udyan.

But it is advisable to visit the places during the day as only a few remain open at night and the lighting is not that good. After all it is a quiet town on the banks of the Brahmaputra... which reminds me of the snaps we took of the mighty river as we passed over the Kaliabhomora bridge. Dawn or dusk is the perfect time for taking pictures of the Brahmaputra just before the glowing sun vanishes in the horizon.

But the one place I really liked was Podum-pukhuri which translated into english means "the lotus pond." Not there were many lotuses there but we enjoyed boating as a cool breeze blew in the evening and a huge crowd of boaters went buzzing around us. Although darkness had fallen already, but the lights from the nearby bank where we got our tickets just provided us with enough scope to take snaps of the life around us. While in all our visits so far, we had taken pictures of the nature from the flowers and birds of Agnigarh to the broad expanse of the Brahmaputra to the gigantic rocks of Kanaklata Udyan to the ruins of Da-parbatia, it was the first time we got an opportunity to click the people around us with all their life and exuberance.
A couple of other locations where you can try your hand at photography are the old railway station with its meter gauge, the pond of Hajara-Pukhuri, the rock inscription of Rudrapad and of course Ganesh-ghat with its crowd of the religious and the agnostics; the first group coming to pray and the second loitering around in the riverbank for not so noble reasons. But one thing for sure, each of these places has its own old world charm and is a paradise for any sane photographer.

SMELLS AND TASTES
There is no dearth of hotels but here is the only con of this beautiful town.....very few are of a good standard. And the 3 star "KRC Palace" is not everybody's cup of tea. But if you are ready to compromise on the lodging part, you can feast on a wide variety of sumptuous meals that the land of Assam has to offer. There are a lot of eateries scattered across the town which provide meals ranging from north-Indian to chinese to delicious local dishes.
If you are not that much into experimenting, you can try Vegie-food or Delight(which is the best bakery in town apart from providing fast food as well). For those with the sweet tooth, KF if recommended. Apart from Delight Bakery, KF is the only place that offers the most delicious pastries and cakes and the good news is that it has two joints in Tezpur,one only serving pastries and sweets and the other providing chinese and indian foods as well.
But for the food-maniacs like my friend Rakesh, I would strongly recommend the local "pitha". Though the pithas are generally made during "Bihu", but you will find a whole lot of extremely courteous and friendly locals who will be ever eager to let you try their varieties of pithas. Honestly, no trip to Assam can be complete without tasting them and the taste will hang on to your tongue long after you have left the beautiful state far behind you.
And of course, not to forget all those roadside vendors selling everything under the sun from "jhalmuri" to noodlesand fried eggs. Trust me you are gonna love it.

ADRENALINEEveryone can try their hands on 'boating' when in Tezpur. From the small motor-driven boats of Podum-pukhuri to the old oar-driven ones of Brahmaputra. Although, Podum-pukhuri is in the heart of the town, but if you want to experience the waves of the brahmaputra, you will have to go a bit further away near Kaliabhomora bridge or Silghat. Although there is very little chance the boatman will hand over the oars to you ,at least you can experience the mode of communication that your forefathers not so long ago used to cross the rivers and which is still used by the small-scale fisherman.

Besides, if you like the idea of an empty road where you can accelerate to your heart's content and push the speedometer of your car or bike to the limit, well Tezpur is the place for you my friend. The town sleeps early but you need not do so. Go out on a long drive to the outskirts of the town to over the Kaliabhomora and you are gonna love it. The thrill you feel as you bolt through the darkness all around you on the solitary road is hard to explain in words.

One location for the safari lovers is the Orang National Park which is an hour's drive from the town( though it depends on who is driving). You need not be a wildlife lover to fall in love with the jungle and the rare species of birds and animals around you. It is the experience of a lifetime.

ROMANCE
Well you might wonder what is in this quiet distant place for lovebirds like you but don't ponder even a moment more over it. Tezpur is the epitome of love. Even the origin of the name Tezpur has its roots in love and the struggles that come with it. It is the place where the evil "Banasur" had taken Lord Krishna's grandson Aniruddha prisoner when he fell in love with Banasur's daughter Usha. The battle that took place after that between banasur's army and Krishna left the whole town red with blood which gave the place the name-"Tezpur" meaning "City of blood".
So you if you are visiting with your lover, take her to Agnigarh which stands as a memory to that epic battle and signifies the victory of love over hatred. The small hill with the beautiful flowers and trees around provides a serene backdrop for love stories.
Apart from Agnigarh, you can go boating in Podum-pukhuri or watch the sunrise and sunset over the Brahmaputra. In the evening, go strolling the quiet roads holding hands and experience the best time of your life.


POCKET-PROTECTIONTezpur is a very safe place, infact one of the safest in Assam what with the Army headquarters situated there. Besides, the locals are very friendly as well and crooks are an extinct species apart from some eve-teasers who are omnipresent infront of the cinemas. So in a nutshell, yhere is very little chance of yours getting ripped of unless you had been living under a rock this long. And as for lodging facilities, as I have already mentioned you can choose depending on your purse from the 3 star "KRC palace" to the moderate "Park". But of course, one rule that apllies everywhere(which I have come to propound based on my experiences) is that never ask the rickshaw-pullers or auto/taxi-drivers to take you to a decent place as it will be anything but decent. So go around and look for yourself, it won't take long as it is a small place and of course you have my little discourse to help you. And for food of course, as I have written you will be spoilt for choice but then again try to prepone your dinner a bit as the town sleep early!

SOUVENIRS
The memory of the place is the greatest souvenir you can take with you. It will always be etched fresh in your memory.Of course, for the more materialistic amongst you, you can buy the "Phulon-gamusa" which is more than just a gamusa(towel) but a significant symbol of Assamese culture. Then there is the "jhapi" and the "mekhela". I won't disclose what they are. Go find out for yourself. After all it is best that some things are unknown as otherwise, what is the point of travelling?

Posted by: 

Surojit ChakrabortyB.Tech in computer science from BIT, Kolkata
Post-graduation: Currently pursuing MHRM in IIT Kharagpur. 
More a writer than a blogger.
Surojit has travelled widely across the north-east

Contact:9681739832
surochak5@gmail.com

Goa - untamed sands

PERSPECTIVES

Goa is an experience that leaves you asking for more no matter who you are or what you go looking for.

For a bunch of liberated guys, it could mean a symbol of freedom – biking through never-ending roads and the lack of a curfew (restaurants are open till as late as 5 unlike most other places in India).
To a group of school kids on an excursion, it could mean infinite stretches of beach to build sand castles on, several imposing churches to stare at in wonder
To the veteran traveller and culture enthusiast, it could be a beautiful ensemble of old Portuguese buildings and traditions (Panjim, old Goa, the names – D’Mellos and Fernandezes) intermixed with an indigenous Konkani approach (eg:-seafood preparations) infused with a dash of cosmopolitan and international tang (eg:-karaoke, world-cuisine, nightclubs, foreign tourists)
To the honeymooning couple, a relaxing week in a resort at an isolated stretch of beach in South Goa, sipping on Margeritas, bathing in the sun and spotting turtles.
To the waiter at the shack, Goa is a window of opportunity to earn a living, especially during Christmas season, a cause worth leaving his home in Nepal for. A chance to meet some tourists who might find him a ticket to Russia or Germany and a well paying job.
To the foreign tourists, its a place with bright golden suns that beams gloriously on their skin starved for warmth, a chance to get out of their fur-coats and into their bikinis and lie for hours together on the beach; a chance to be hippie and happy at a very low cost and finally -
to the nation, a vibrant economy and a major contributor to tourism revenues.
Whoever you are , you leave Goa happy.

PICTURE PERFECT

I would imagine a photographer would gravitate towards a visually stimulating ambience.
That being said, a trip to Anjuna flea market is like walking into a kaleidoscope. A field of multinational street shoppers for as far as the eye can see – this Wednesday morning bazaar can boast of having more colours than any LED television known to man. After recovering from the momentary paralysis, I realised that this place was made possible because of an Indian stereotype I wasn’t yet aware of – Indians apparently like to dress in BOLD COLOURS ! At least the foreign crowd seems to think that that more colours they find on a garment, the closer they are to the stylised image of glorious tantric divinity, and consequently the better the bargain.

Personally, I’m fascinated by anything arranged in rows. And rows is all Anjuna flea market has. One could hold that camera at one end and capture a row of about fifty harems, or skirts, or scarves, or shorts, or tops, or dresses, or hats, or rugs, or music CDs, or incense sticks, or hookah, or all of the above.

What makes for a great profile picture is the sun filtering in through the straw ceiling and bathing the subject in dots, while the subject is surrounded by bright clothes of every hue imaginable.

Another subject of interest could be a scene of buyer and seller engaged in a classic haggling contest. The good buyers manage to secure the item in question at about a quarter of the quoted price, but not without displaying an assortment of extremely photogenic expressions and gestures.

The odd toddler in sunglasses and ‘Aum’ embellished kurta or a leisurely cow looking misplaced in the apparent vicissitudes of life around it could make for a good capture as well.






Curlies beach shack, again at Anjuna beach proves to be a haven for a very interesting type of photography. On an average day between Christmas and New Year’s, Curlies can figuratively house the whole of the People’s Republic of China. While the sheer size of the crowd can prove infinite opportunities for a photographer from a people-watcher’s perspective, the attraction for me comes illuminated by ultra-violet light. The ambience is pretty trippy, to be very straightforward . The dance floor lies beneath a roof supported by canes painted in fluorescent green and orange and the back of the the elevated stage is painted with themes centred around (seemingly magic) mushrooms, wood nymphs, spirals and generally confounding designs.

A good site to capture midday sun flares would be a rocky section at Arambol beach, or while focusing on an airborne para-glider at the same location.

SMELLS AND TASTES

I would like to begin this section by talking about what I believe all of mankind is subconsciously set out to achieve. Cheesecake. Nothing would please me more than calling myself a connoisseur of cheesecake, only that my last few encounters with cheesecake have not been very pleasant. Goa was a mixed bag though. I have tried cheesecake in three places, (incidentally mind you – not that i went to these places looking for cheese cake)
a) Carasid (near Miramar) – The blueberry cheesecake was quite top notch
b) Down the road (Panjim) – The cheesecake was covered in ants
c) German bakery (Anjuna) – The cream in the cheesecake had turned sour
I realise I have put my connoisseur reputation at stake by displaying a 33% success rate with respect to cheesecake but I really found the last two places worth a mention for other reasons.
Down the road is a pub with a tavern-ish feel set in a fantastic location by the Old Patto bridge. We decided to hit the place for lunch. The seats are designed like barrels and are quite cosy. The corner seat has a TV broadcasting cookery channels and tempting you sufficiently before your order comes. The potato wedges and fish preparations are worth a try. The waiters might come off as a little rude, if you manage to subdue your violent reactionary tendencies, you might enjoy a great conversation over a beer and the virtually noiseless Goan traffic. The place is quite affordable for the average holidaying Kumar and also boasts of live music performances and Karaoke in the evenings. One word of caution though; If you plan to go during the daytime, please don’t expect the kitchens to be open before 12:30 or after 3pm , when the chefs enjoy their mandatory siesta.
I was in one of my rare curious moods when I followed a scooter into an inconspicuous lane which sort of gave me the feeling of an Alice going down the rabbit hole before I reached an oasis by the name of German Bakery which swept me clean off my feet ! The main entrance boasts of health food and wifi. Reason in itself to warrant an inspection. Upon entry, you will find a notice board which advertises yoga and spirituality sessions by a foreigner, dance lessons for kids and other interesting things which made me realise the prevalence of microcosms within Goa. As I entered the cafe, I felt an intense feeling of liberation. Expansive and colourful, the decor seemed to be intelligently and I suspect, intentionally designed with a somewhat careless touch. Floor cushion-seating, garage sale paintings with simple designs, colourful Tibetian prayer flag, fish nets and plenty of potted plants. But it all came together well enough for me to buy it; and I haven’t even come to the menu yet. The menu is the longest thing I’ve read since the Lord of the Rings. It started off with ‘energy shots’ – aloe vera and wheat grass. I assumed aloe vera would be bitter so I opted for the wheat grass for the sheer novelty of it. As per what I’d expected, it was grass, and unlike what I expected , instead of invigorating me, it put me into a snail-like stupor that caused me to sit there for the next four hours. In that time, I took the opportunity to try out several dishes, many of which I would actually like to recommend. The Vitamina tea or any of the assortment of the extremely jazzy sounding medley beverages, Jamaican pancake, crepe in strawberry sauce, cinnamon croissant and the broccoli pasta. The crowd there pretty much seemed to be from all corners of the world, making it a good place to discuss global warming and other such global issues over a cup of aloe vera or wheat grass.

A major attraction at Goa, is the Bebinca – a fourteen layered dessert , the recipe of which it seems, has been guarded by Goans for millennia at a level of secrecy several times greater than Coca Cola. Well, not exactly, but such ideas did cross my head during my search for Bebinca spanning three days before I ran into it in Delfino’s supermarket, Candolim. (How that happened is a long story, but the important thing is that it happened) It did live up to its expectations when eaten with a dollop of ice cream at the side of the plate. I later discovered that it was quite widely accessible after all. Anyway, a MUST HAVE.

I wish to skip past the typical vindaloo, xacuti hocum altogether since I didn’t like them very much. I really recommend Apana Punjab, near vagator beach for its lassi and affordable rates.

Most Goan party destinations carry the scent of incense, and quite intoxicating at that. Waft after waft of a fragrance that I can't seem to liken to anything, just that its on the stronger side, perhaps floral, possibly medicinal and definitely inviting. I suppose the biggest trigger of a string of nostalgic thoughts associated with Goa is this scent. I've tried googling it in vain, I would really appreciate if someone enlightened me about it.

ADRENALINE

The number one spot in Goa for an adrenaline rush would have to be the paragliding center at Arambol beach. The approach to the beach is a fantastic serene 24 km drive from Baga, that only builds expectation of an adventure. (I suggest you leave before noon since winds are not very strong in the evening) There are a couple of hilly stretches of road that are bathed majestically in sunlight - I highly recommend traveling with a 'woo-girl' in this stretch. The entrance to Arambol beach is a reasonably long narrow 'galli' lined with shops where you can purchase anything, yet nothing in particular. The beach suddenly opens up to a panoramic view of clean water, good-looking foreigners, a volleyball court and a the hope of a peaceful stay uninterrupted by hawkers or waiters dragging you to oblige with a purchase or a meal. You will not be able to spot the paragliders at first but you will have to look to the far right (also left - but I have been twice to the right side). If you look at the water, you will see the beach 'ending' in a pile of rock. There is a sheltered passageway that leads you to the spot by taking you through a maze of restaurants playing devotional music and hawkers selling Bob Marley t-shirts. Once you reach the paragliding spot, you will be accosted by a bunch of guys. Do NOT go to the foreigner, he charges too much. Use all your bargain skills with the Himachali guys that conduct your adventure. Christmas season could cost you as much as Rs. 1500/- . Attempt to get it to Rs. 1000 - 1200. Try and avoid the expensive food if you don't want your hard-earned bargain lost to another business cause. Ask for hill top takeoff - to bottom landing. The trek up to the hill-top is quite fun, just be sure not to slip on the loose mud , and do carry a bottle of water with you. Once there at the top , you will feel a great sense of relief followed by excitement , or surprise, in case you find a 70 year old foreigner running laps in the tall grass. Then get prepared to fasten your seat-belt and wipe your head clear of all worries as you get ready for the leap of faith.

ROMANCE

I would really recommend the one hour plus drive from Calangute area to Querim beach way up in the north, especially the last fifteen minute stretch that snakes through the hills. I found myself mesmerised by the view and talking about Buddhist philosophy but I’m pretty sure it could tickle out romantic thoughts in a couple looking for a getaway. Querim beach itself is really serene and non-commercial, which could prove to be a spot for a nice picnic and a heart-to heart.
Hookah by candle-light at one of the sea-side shacks at Baga beach is also a pretty cosy experience. Don’t stay beyond 9 pm unless you want to find yourself completely alone with only the waiters and the darkness surrounding you.


POCKET-PROTECTION

Goa is infamous for having the ability to burn your pocket without you realising. With some prior planning, you should be able to save some valuable bucks without robbing you of significant amount of experience. It must be noted that Goa is a seasonal holiday location. What that means is that the whole economy of Goa lies dormant for most of the year, only to emerge post-Christmas with a vengeance, that'll take you for a ride.

New-years time is clearly the most expensive - places to stay are about ten times more expensive than at a quiet time of the year (such as the monsoon season).
Note that after new-years , shacks and guest houses will require you to book for at least 5 days. Averaging around 3000 Rs for a double-bedded room per night, you will be set off by a clean 15 grand. Be prepared. Do some thorough research. I would ideally stay for 3 nights and 4 days and I am confident there are places which would gladly have you stay for that duration without too much of a fuss. An Activa scooter on rent would go for upto 700 bucks a day post-christmas, around 1500 around new years and a mere 200 during off-season. If you have to rent a scooter, do it in a block covering your whole stay with a buffer. You don't want to inform him at the last moment that you wish to keep it for half a day more and end up paying heavily (sometimes double) for the extra time.

There are a variety of novel ways in which shopkeepers like to rip off tourists - one way is the concept of 'cooling charges' . If you walk into a store for a couple beers, and ask the price, and then add up the costs only to find a discrepancy, you are a victim of 'cooling charges'. The truth is that there is no such thing as 'cooling charges', and the price at which you should be purchasing it is the MRP or the maximum retail price printed on the bottle/can.

SOUVENIRS

• Almost any article of clothing or junk jewellery from Anjuna flea market.
• A pipe and flavoured tobacco from the same place.
• Colourful fish-printed shorts at Calangute beach.
• A 500gm pack of Bebinca.
• Salted cashew-nuts - they're sold in wholesale stores in Goa. Mapusa bust stand.
• Cashew feni. Be warned, feni has a peculiar smell, somewhat like Fevicol, that causes the female species to want to vomit, so I suggest it be gifted as a token of vitality and machismo to a male friend.